KIM VAN ANTWERP

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Process: Beadweaving

Beadweaving, technically speaking, is a method of creating a self-supporting structure made up of beads and thread. The form I’m practicing is called off-loom beadweaving, which I think is self-explanatory. There are a wide variety of ‘stitches’ in popular use, the most flexible of which in my opinion are peyote (also known as gourd) stitch, and right-angle weave.

This isn’t a primer or how-to; rather, I’d like to talk about how beadweaving inspires me.

Bon Bon earrings, readymade Swarovski crystal earrings, glass beads, vintage plastic and pearl.

I don’t work from patterns, just from a basic understanding of the structure and nature of the work. Peyote stitch, for example, forms a net or mesh, where the beads could be considered nodes. By using more than one bead (increase), or a different size, the fabric of the work can be drawn in or pooched out to create ruffles or spirals, or to reflect the contours of an underlying form.

For example, the Bon Bon earrings are beaded over a readymade lever-back earring form to create a simple bezel.

Podleaf pendant, geodes, green quartz, glass beads, sterling silver, Swarovski crystals.

The bead-by-bead nature of beadweaving in general, and peyote stitch in particular, makes it perfect for designing on the fly. which is my preferred mode. I can pick up a new color or even a different shape of bead on a whim, or start a different stitch right off of what I’m doing.

The pendant at right is a good example of combining different beads and stitches within one design. I fabricated the setting of sterling silver, then covered it with peyote stitch in small round seed beads, going up in size to accommodate the base of the quartz stone, then coming down again with smaller beads.

The leaves are made with a different type of beads. These cylinder beads are extremely regular in shape and create a smooth fabric of beadwork. The leaf shapes originate in right-angle weave, the ‘vein’ at the center, around which I can use peyote stitch to create the leaf. increases at each end of the vein, in amber, add dimension.

And it really does make a fabric. At right, a belt of right-angle weave is beaded on both edges, with 5 randomly placed increases, to create a large star-shaped tube. By twisting the arms of the star, I can create this fanciful cocktail ring. You can see the structure of the belt, in purple, the peyote stitch in orange and pink, and the increases in turquoise.

After giving my hands an extended vacation from beadweaving, I’m definitely back. It has been a pleasure returning to this medium and using it in ways I haven’t tried before.

Flying Fivewing cocktail ring, Contemporary Geometric Beadwork, volume 2.

Pierced Arrow digital pattern.

Below are links to beadweaving artists and some patterns you might like to try. Oh! I have patterns for sale here on the site as well, dating from my stint with the Contemporary Geometric Beadwork project. At left, the Pierced Arrow bracelet.

David Chatt is probably the artist best-known for covering random things with beads.

Liza Lou works on a truly amazing scale.

Warped Square Wednesday is a blog I did featuring 52 free patterns for warped squares, which can be used alone or sewn together in many ways. It is also the reason I needed a vacation from beadweaving!

A warped square from the blog, featuring clear beads to show off the threadpath. #30, Pas de Deux, Warped Square Wednesday.